Do’s and Don’ts / Hazards & Common Mistakes:

You will need to take your puppy for his or her first check-up, even if nothing is at issue, they still need a baseline, an accurate weighing and a schedule of future vaccinations.  When you take your puppy to your personal Veterinarian never walk them on a leash into a clinic.  Disease and germs are present.  Parvo and other canine bacteria’s are EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS to young puppies because their immune systems are not fully developed.  Here are a few do’s and don’ts when handling your puppy:

(1) Make an appointment ahead of time at your Vet Clinic, so you’re not waiting in a waiting area with other dogs and owners any longer than you have to.  Exposure to sickness and infections unintentionally can spell disaster.  Let the clinic know you have a baby puppy; which is exactly what you have at eight to nine weeks of age.

(2) It is perfectly acceptable and understandable that you would carry your puppy into the Vet’s office; and it’s even more acceptable to request that a scale be wiped down with a sanitizing agent like a mild bleach solution or disinfectant before you place your puppy on that scale!  You can even bring your own wipes if necessary.  Things like waiting rooms, scales, examination tables and examination rooms can be overlooked by over-worked personnel unintentionally.  Qualified, professional Vet Techs and Veterinarians will be glad you’re asking for them to ensure the health of your puppy.

(3) Showing off your new puppy is something everyone wants to do, and you should share your beautiful new beagle with every one of your friends and family, but do so wisely.  Discretely inquire about any other pet’s health where you are intending to go.  An exposure to communicable disease might be fatal to your new puppy.  Going to a puppy park or a dog park is not wise for the first three to six months.  Exposing your puppy to healthy, well cared for animals is wise; unintentionally exposing your puppy to an unknown condition in an unknown animal or home is not.  Be sure you know and understand the risks associated with public parks and places where other animals go.  Pet stores, going to buy a new collar, all this can seem very innocent; but walking your puppy on the floors of businesses that cater to hundreds of animals every day is just asking for medical problems.  The key to knowing where to go and how to go with your beagle puppy is understanding that your puppy needs to have a healthy, fully developed immune system with the appropriate vaccinations already having been administered before wide-spread exposure to other animals.

Depending on where you live, and how you intend to have your new beagle live with you, here are some helpful tips to caring for your new puppy.

Food

(1) Be sure and ask your breeder what kind of food they are feeding their puppies; have a menu planned.  Many breeders choose a specific menu and/or a specific brand based on price and availability.  Others choose from top-rated brands and some breeders mix their brands to create what they feel is the best diet for their animals.  You should know exactly what your puppy is eating, because the time to change their diet is not the first day you bring them home.  Expect your breeder to give you enough food that they are consuming to be able to get you through the first three days, with enough left over to “blend” into the brand of dog food you intend to feed your puppy. 

(2) Food for your puppy and how you choose your brand, and how you gradually integrate that brand into your puppies diet is important, but what is critical is how that food is stored for the life of the animal.  Make sure you have a place away from or fully secured away from your puppy.  Beagles do not have an “off” switch when it comes to eating.  They are not typically “free-fed” dogs.  Instead, beagles are best kept in shape with regular exercise and fixed portions at pre-determined times.  Your beagle should never have access to an “unlimited” food supply.  Beagles can actually “eat” themselves to death, consuming large quantities of dry food, then drinking water.  The kibble can swell in their bellies to the point that respiratory function becomes compromised.  Suffocation ensues without immediate medical attention.  Make sure you do have a plan in place before your puppy comes home.  When it comes to feeding and securing your dog’s food, it is best to have this plan in place well into adulthood.

(3) Water, kibble and a little wet food is an excellent way to be able to modify your puppy’s diet.  A lot can be judged about your puppy’s health by his or her stool; and you can modify your puppy’s food intake, consistency and mixture to tailor your puppy’s diet, and, in turn, your puppies stool.  Know that your puppy is “cutting” teeth, that is to say they are growing their teeth through their gums, and they need something to chew on.  Exclusively feeding them wet food will result in a lot of unintentional “chewing” on furniture and other things in your home you probably want to avoid!  A good rule of thumb is small kibble, not soaked in water, but mixed with water or a little wet food.  If given to your puppy immediately after mixing, they will be able to “crunch” up their food in a healthy way that promotes good teeth and good health. 

(4) Sources of water are also potential sources of water-borne bacterial diseases.  Ensure if you live in the country that your dog’s water is dumped at night or secured at night.  This will prevent the spread of disease from a wild animal’s visit to your pet’s water bowel.  Change your pet’s water two or three times a day; especially while they are growing.  Your puppy will need lots of clean water to drink.  Expect that they will jump in and knock over that water bowel if at all possible.  Remember, it’s just another toy to a beagle!  Big, wide, heavy bowels work best for puppies.

Toys

Not all dog toys are created with small puppies in mind.  Rubber toys can be easily dismembered and digested by your puppy, causing blockages in their digestive tracts and other metabolic problems in the GI tract.  Pieces of toys that are broken off can choke a small puppy very easily.  A good rule of thumb, if it’s soft fabric, it’s probably safe.  If it’s a human baby toy, it’s probably safe.  Take caution with rawhides and even digestible rawhide toys.  These are safe only when your puppy is fully grown.

Potential Lethal Hazards to your puppies

A puppy is very much like a human infant.  You really can’t let a puppy out of sight, and although some things might seem “common-sense,” the following really needs to be considered with a new puppy.  Puppies do not have the immune systems to handle insect bites such as scorpions, ant-swarmings, centipedes or snake bites.  Some puppies may actually go into shock over what you might consider a very simple or minor incident.  When in doubt, don’t let your puppy out.  If it’s night-time, the aforementioned critters are out, actively hunting for food, in seemingly harmless surroundings; your grass, a deck, under a step or stone.  Your puppy is just an innocent bystander or may be curious.  You must know that your beagle is naturally curious and is genetically pre-dispositioned to hunt or track, and this applies to a lethal insect or snake.  Your puppy will not understand the threat.  Once bitten, you may not even know this has happened.  Fatalities occur in puppies because of these incidents.  They are unfortunately, part of life, but you can do your best to prevent them.  Best not to let your puppy out at night, and/or in un-lit areas.  If you have not sprayed or had your yard treated in advance, do not let your puppy “explore” in areas that are dark, moist or concealed.  You can physically remove items or areas that are prone to predatory animals or insects. 

Poisons or commercial pesticides can be fatal to a puppy.  If you intend to have your yard sprayed to mitigate for insects or pests, do not allow your puppy into the sprayed areas until told it is safe for them to be there.  All commercial exterminators are required to inform you of the risks and the hazards associated with what they are putting or spraying on your property.  Make sure you explain to an exterminator that you do have or will have a new puppy at your home.   

Physical hazards, such as stairs or elevated platforms, heavy pipe or lumber, heavy items that cannot be moved, sheds or wood piles with access underneath; these might seem innocent enough, but remember, your puppy could easily get stuck or find themselves unable to get out of an area like this.  Baby pools, ponds or even large areas of standing water can be lethal to puppies.  Chemicals that might seem innocent enough like lawn feed or weed and feed or anti-freeze or oil; your puppy see’s these things as toys to be explored.  Best to have things like this inaccessible to your puppy without direct supervision.  Driveways, where people are running, playing, cars and bicycles are driving by, your puppy can be very fast and dart out in front of someone or something before you would be able to stop them. 

Hot cars, rooms or garages that are not climate controlled; these all might seem innocuous to a large dog if they have access to go outside, but your puppy, if confined or doesn’t know how to get outside, and will die from exposure to excessive high or low temperatures in a very short period of time.  

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Thinking about your puppy as an infant, which is exactly what your puppy is, will lead to an accident-free life and an environment that is healthy for your puppy.  If you wouldn’t leave a child a child in that area or that place, think about it, why would you do that to your puppy?  The key to mitigating physical hazards and lowering the chances of an incident is preparation.  We talk with you about your yard and about where your puppy will live.  When we ask these questions, we’re asking for you, for your new family member and our piece of mind.  We want you and your family to have the best shot at a long and happy life together!